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Then we begin our journey through historical time at La Venta Olmec Museum, a unique outdoor museum. The first documentation of shamanistic practices in Mesoamerica occurs during the Formative period of the Olmec. Their highest civilization dates from 1,200 BC, although they were at their peak in this area from 800 to 300 BC. Many scholars believe the Olmec were the cradle civilization for the genepool of Mesoamerica, even calling the Olmecs ¨the mother culture of Mesoamerica.¨ Then we'll go to the Palenque Archaeological Museum, where we'll visit the impressive with its extensive collection of artifacts from the site. Overnight in the lush rainforest setting of the Chan Kah Ruinas resort. Welcome dinner.
Mon. May 4 (3 Aj / Ben): For the next two days we'll be joined by achaeo-astronomy expert Alfonso Morales, who has spent many years researching how the ancient Maya designed their cities to mirror celestial patterns. Our exploration of the mysteries of the height of the ancient Maya -- the Classic Period -- begins with an entire day to visit the spectacular ruins of Palenque -- a UNESCO historical monument. Ancient Maya structures built by the famous King Pakal and his son Chan Bahlum rise out of the lush rainforest on multiple terraces. Many famous inscriptions are on the facades of these temples and in their innermost sanctuaries, including an inscription that predicts events as far in the future as 4772 AD. Chan Bahlum commissioned three temples to celebrate a conjunction of Jupiter, Mars and Saturn. The inscriptions say that when the moon joined the planets he conjured the ghost of his Grandmother, the namesake of a goddess named Lady Egret. In the evening the Tedlocks will perform translations of the temple inscriptions. Overnight Chan Kah Ruinas resort in Palenque.
Tue. May 5 (4 Ix / Ix): Journey by boat down the mighty Usumacinta River to the mysterious ancient Maya site of Yaxchilan. You'll hear stories of ancient Mayan Queens who exerted great power and about the modern Lakandon Maya Indians who still use Yaxchilan as a place of worship. See howler monkeys and many exotic birds as you roam this well organized ancient Maya city. Then we travel by boat and land to Guatemala. We'll overnight at Tikal Inn eco-lodge, nestled in the jungle inside Tikal Archaeological Park. With our close proximity to the ruins you may go into the site for sunrise if you wish. On this day and the two that follow we will be within the dates of the Solar Zenith at the local latitude (which only occurs in the Tropical Zone) and the sun at mid-day will be directly overhead.
Wed. May 6 (5 Tz'ikin / Men): Today we visit Tikal. One of the most famous and beautiful of Maya sites from the Classic Period, Tikal’s massive and steep pyramids (one is over 200 feet high) loom above the lush jungle of the Peten where one can observe spider and howler monkeys and numerous bird species such as toucans, parrots and macaws. Well preserved glyphic texts detail a dynamic historical record spanning over 1,000 years, including a very old long-count inscription date of 292 AD. At Sunset a local Maya shaman will officiate at a traditional ceremony for our group at the ruins. Overnight at Tikal Inn eco-lodge. On this evening the moon goddess will sit in the lap of Lady of the House, which is to say that the moon will be in conjunction with Spica, the brightest star in Virgo.
Thu. May 7 (6 Ajmak / Cib): Morning talk on the decline of the ancient rainforest cities and what followed by Dennis Tedlock. Then we’ll visit the Tikal Sylvanus Morley Museum. Afternoon jungle boat ride up the Rio Passion to the ruins at Seibal (Ceibal) with its many well preserved stele. Seibal is considered to be one of the first Postclassic sites to flourish after the decline of the Classic Period. Nicknamed "the art gallery of the Mayan world", our visit will be enhanced by Dennis Tedlock's expert ability to translate ancient glyphtexts. One of the stelas gives us a link to the highland Maya, naming a city that is also named in the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the K’iche’ Maya. At the end of the day we’ll go to Flores for sightseeing and shopping. Flores is an island on Lake Peten, built on the ruins of the capital of a Maya kingdom that remained independent until 1697. Overnight Hotel Esplendido located on the shores of Lake Peten in Flores.
Fri. May 8 (7 No'j / Caban): Early morning we fly to Guatemala City. While there we’ll visit The Popol Vuh Museum's extensive collection of pre-Hispanic art and folklore section with indigenous clothing and traditional masks. Then we'll visit The Ixchel Museum of Textiles. Named after the Maya goddess of weaving and midwifery it has a vast collection of textiles from over 100 Mayan communities dating from the end of the 19th century to today.
In the afternoon we’ travel to spectacular Lake Atitlán where we begin our immersion into the world of the modern Maya. Atitlán (the Nahuatl word for "place of water"), is called Najachel in the local Mayan languages, meaning “at the grove of matasano trees” whose wood is used for woodcarving. At an altitude of 1562 meters (4,265 feet) the lake is surrounded by three towering volcanoes and its shores are home to a multitude of Maya communities. Formed by water built up in a volcanic crater, Lake Atitlán was called by novelist Aldous Huxley "the most beautiful lake in the world".
This evening Barbara Tedlock will give a talk on the way the Maya incorporate their Dreams and Time into their weavings.
Overnight at Hotel Atitlán in Panajachel. This hotel on Lake Atitlán has fantastic views of the lake and surrounding volcanoes and a spa that offers treatments that combine Mayan and western healing therapies. This will be the evening of the Full Moon.
Sat. May 9 (8 Tijax / Etz'nab): Morning boat trip across the lake to Santiago de Atitlán. It is the capital of the Tzutujil Maya nation, who consider it to be the navel of the Universe. It has the largest population of indigenous people of any town in Central America. Renowned weavers, the women in Santiago wear traditional headdresses made from long lengths of cloth wound repeatedly around the head, after the manner of some of the figures in Classic Maya art. In the parish church there is a remarkable combination of traditional Mayan and Catholic religious practices. One of the most important saints is a figure called Maximón, who combines the attributes of St. Simon, Judas Iscariot, and the ancient Mayan god of merchants. In the afternoon we’ll take some time to wander among the butterfly and herb gardens of the Atitlán Nature Reserve, where coati mundis nose their ways through the underbrush and spider monkeys swing through the trees. Sometimes, if they take a liking to you, the monkeys will sit next to you while you enjoy the wonderful natural setting. We'll overnight again at Hotel Atitlán.
Sun. May 10 (9 Kawuq / Cauac): This morning we visit Chichicastenango ("place of the nettles"), an important ritual center for the contemporary Maya and the most colorful native market in all the Americas. We’ll witness modern shamans who continue the spiritual practices of their ancestors at shrines on the steps of the church of Santo Tomás . The adjacent marketplace brings Mayans from all over Guatemala to buy, sell, and trade their wares. A wonderful mix of richly colored textiles, meticulously carved wooden masks, the scent of copal incense and candles, the sounds of prayers and songs -- a truly unique experience. We’ll also visit the Regional Museum, home to a great collection of jade and ceramic pieces and incense burners.
Then to the nearby ruins at Utatlàn, the ancient K’iche’ Maya capital. It was the most powerful city in the highlands until 1524, when it was destroyed by the Spanish and most of its inhabitants fled to nearby Chichicastenango. Known as K'umarca’j and mentioned in the Popol Vuh, it was renamed Utatlán by Nahuatl-speaking allies of the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado. It is sacred site for modern Maya shamans, who burn candles and incense in the plaza and in the ancient tunnel that runs beneath it. Then we’ll continue on to the beautiful colonial city of Antigua and the hotel/museum Casa Santa Domingo, situated within an important monastery that has been faithfully restored to its former elegance. You’ll have a free evening to explore Antigua on your own (your hotel is within walking distance of the main square and the major center of shops and restaurants).
Mon. May 11 (10 Junajpu / Ahau): On this day of the ancestors we visit the historic sights of Antigua. Formerly Santiago de Guatemala, it was once the third most important Spanish city in the Americas. For 200 years it served as the political and economic center for all lands between Chiapas and Costa Rica. A lovely city with spectacular views of the three volcanoes that surround it (Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango) is has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage City. The notables buried beneath the ruins of the cathedral, where local Mayan shamans burn candles, include Pedro de Alvarado, Bernal Díaz del Castillo, and an Aztec princess. In the market one can find everything from brightly colored and intricately embroidered textiles to exquisitely worked jade from nearby mines. Farewell dinner. Overnight at Casa Santo Domingo Antigua.
Tue. May 12 (11 Imox / Imix): This day completes the fourth of the twenty-day divisions of the highland Maya solar year, which began on February 22. And it is the end of our journey. We’ll have a shuttle to the airport throughout the day to connect you with your homeward flights from Guatemala City. |
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